The back entrance resides hidden along the long cobbled Villiers Road that leads towards Embankment Station, far down on the left, through an unassuming gate. If you weren't looking, you wouldn't think to notice it. (I say back entrance because when we arrived, the front appeared resolutely closed. So closed in fact, it looked like it hadn't been in business for 20 years). However, don't be fooled, it is the oldest wine bar in London, and everything about it really plays up to this idea.
Once through the gate you're in a startlingly long terrace, lined with umbrellas, tables and upturned barrels, acting as smaller tables on which to perch. Now descend down the steep stone stairs of the (back) entrance into what at first is almost total darkness, and be delighted by the dark, stone-walled, candle-lit, buzzy den that is Gordon's. The only aspect that didn't necessarily exude age and fit with the decor was the lovely, if slightly out of place, well-groomed bartender, sporting a bright pink low necked-tshirt in a way that I'm more accustomed to seeing in Soho.
Sidle your way through the busy throng and you'll emerge into a low-ceilinged, dark, candlelit stone tunnel. Very Phantom of the Opera. Very fun. We luckily managed to nab a table in the corner and brought with us our vittles. (Excuse the use of 'vittles' but I'm feeling old fashioned just thinking about it).
You can also get hot food platters, consisting of things such as chicken wings, ravioli, moussaka, the list goes on. Similarly, you can also order from the outside grill, which does burgers, halloumi, steak sandwiches and the like, all around the £8 mark. Gordon's not only gives you choice, but it doesn't stint on the portion sizes either.
I really enjoyed my visit and it has really livened up the otherwise slightly dull Strand for me. So if you're looking for somewhere with ambience, atmosphere and great food, then give it a whirl. Or even if you just like cheese.
- J
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